My Milan Black Book
A shortlist of my favorite and frequented places in Milan
Milan is one of my favorite cities in the world. The city has inspired many dreams in life: to open a neighborhood café and aperitivo bar, the aspiration and inspiration to design spaces, and lastly, to be an elegant and superbly dressed Catholic woman. Like a migratory bird whose instinct is to travel north in the thaw of spring, my marker of the season’s shift is the moment I’m seated in the sunshine of a palazzo, sipping a perfectly-frothed cappuccino during Salone.
For those who don’t know, Salone is the largest and longest-running International Design Fair in the world. It’s the Olympics for those in the interior and architectural trade. For a week, private palazzos are transformed into immersive exhibition spaces showcasing what’s new and next in design. It is also the most essential research trip of my year.
In light of my annual trip to Milan, I’m sharing some of my favorite places in the city.
BARS
Bar Basso — A place that needs no introduction, Bar Basso is a Milanese institution and Salone’s official watering hole. It’s an art bar with a destination cocktail list and the Negroni Sbagliato birth site, which translates to Mistake in Italian. An apt name for a cocktail bar where undoubtedly a night of many mistakes start.
Bar Quadronno—This is a traditional Milanese bar that specializes in sandwiches. It is open all day for aperitivo and is essential for a late-night bite after a bar shop. The prosciutto panini here is not to miss.
Enoteco / Naturale — A wine bar serving low-intervention and biodynamic wines and salty, flavor-packed small plates.
Stilla Bar—Located in the Fashion District of Milan, the Stilla Bar is housed inside the Four Seasons Milano. It is a great location to grab a drink away from the crowds in a soft-lift, diffused yet swanky setting. It's ideal for a long business meeting.
CAFÉS
I am not a sweets person. However, I am someone who will adapt and adjust my dietary preferences to the local environment. Being in Italy, I do as the Italians do. I eat cake for breakfast.
Bar Luce — Located inside Fondazione Prada is Bar Luce, a 1950s style café designed by the filmmaker Wes Anderson. The café is a full visual immersion that borders on the line of cinephile simulation, further prompted with café staff costumed in Prada-designed uniforms. A perfect breakfast place for pastries and people-watching.
Marchesi 1824 — An institutional pastry shop now owned and operated by Prada group located on Via Monteleone, Milan’s retail high street. Founded in 1824 by the Marchesi family, the historic pastry shop sells exceptional desserts and the artisanal production of Panettone, a typical Milanese holiday cake.
There is a meticulous attention to detail in design and hospitality that is uniquely Milanese. From the elegant pastry decorations, packaging and platewear, even ordering a two euro espresso at the bar is a well-executed performance piece.
Pasticceria Sissi is another key address for a decadent and carbacious breakfast. Come here for the custard-filled croissants or prosciutto-filled brioche paired with a perfectly frothed cappuccino. Thankfully, walking is the main mode of transport in Milan, which makes the carbfest all the more justified.
ARCHITECTURE
Villa Necchi Campiglio—Immortalized in Luca Guadagnino’s film Io sono l’amore, Villa Necchi is a historic residence designed by Piero Portaluppi, located in the center of Milan. It is truly a great case study in Italian Art deco, with all of the art and interiors perfectly-preserved and picture-ready. Schedule time to sit poolside by the gardens, and even take a lunch break on the restaurant terrace.
MUSEUMS
Fondazione Prada is my favorite contemporary art museum in Milan. It hosts multidisciplinary programming of works from international artists inside a steel multi-complex designed by Rem Koolhaas. Curatorial programming is always on the cutting edge of culture—one of my favorite exhibits is Carsten Holler’s ‘Upside Down Mushroom Room.’
Triennale Milano— The Triennale is a museum that exhibits major Italian artists in design, architecture, visual arts, and performing arts. Every exhibition is dedicated to a theme reflecting modern-day issues, designed to provoke and engage its audiences.
RESTAURANTS
Giacommo Bistrot — is one of my favorite and most looked forward to meals in Milan. It is distinctive for its old-world charm and fresh cuisine. Tables are set in a diffusely lit library-style salon. The must-tries on the menu are the cacio e pepe, bottarga pasta, and seafood.
A Santa Lucia — Though this would classify a tourist spot with its location by the Duomo, A Santa Lucia is an old-school Italian trattoria where you can sufficiently feel nourished by its effortless, elegant Italian vibes.
La Latteria — Classic, Milanese cuisine in an intimate environment. The restaurant doesn’t take reservations so it’s best to arrive early or to go with locals. Reserving a table in Italian is always a plus.
Antica Trattoria della Pesa — “Trattoria” translates to small restaurant in Italian, and typically connotes a type of meal shared among friends and family members. Go for the classic dishes like the Ossobuco or Vitelllo Tonnato.
La Librera - Last but not least is La Librera, a lunch to late night restaurant in the heart of Brera where you can order staples like anchovy and butter, la milanesa and prosciutto and parm.
Lovely!